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Residential Asphalt Paving: The 2026 Engineering Guide

This guide provides a comprehensive, engineering-grade breakdown of asphalt paving costs, technical specifications, and critical safety requirements for residential projects. Whether you are paving a flat suburban driveway or a steep mountain access road, understanding these factors is essential for a durable installation.

Properly installed asphalt provides 20+ years of service life.

1. The Real Cost of Asphalt in 2026

Asphalt, often referred to as "blacktop," remains the most popular residential paving material due to its value per square foot. However, advertised prices often exclude critical cost factors.

The national average for a properly installed asphalt driveway in 2026 ranges between $7.00 and $13.00 per square foot. This price fluctuates based on the Crude Oil Index, as asphalt cement is a petroleum derivative.

Understanding "Mobilization" Costs

Smaller driveways often have a higher cost per square foot due to mobilization. A professional paving crew transports significant heavy equipment to the job site:

• The Paver ($150k+): The machine that lays the asphalt mat.
• The 3-Ton Roller ($40k): Essential for proper compaction.
• Support Vehicles: Skid steers and dump trucks for material handling.

The logistics of moving this equipment incurs a fixed cost for the contractor, typically around $1,500, before paving begins. For smaller driveways (e.g., 300 sq ft), this fee significantly impacts the per-foot price.

Cost Checklist by Driveway Size:

2. Steep Driveways (Engineering Challenges)

Paving on a grade (slope) exceeding 12% requires specialized techniques and equipment. Inexperienced contractors may struggle with equipment traction and material stability on steep inclines.

Technical Considerations for Steep Approaches

• Grade Percentage: Most fire codes limit driveway grades to 20-25% to ensure emergency vehicle access.
• Variables: "Crowning" (raising the center) can be dangerous on steep slopes. A uniform cross-slope or superelevation is often safer.
• Compaction: Steel-drum rollers may lose traction. Winch-assisted or pneumatic rollers are required to achieve density without tearing the mat.

Safety & Traction

Standard asphalt can be slippery on steep grades, especially in winter. For slopes over 15%, specify a high-friction surface.

Request an Open Graded Friction Course (OGFC) or a mix with larger aggregate (3/8" or 1/2" stone) for the surface layer to improve tire grip.

3. Asphalt Millings (A Cost-Effective Alternative)

For long driveways where hot-mix asphalt is cost-prohibitive, Recycled Asphalt Millings offer a viable alternative.

Millings are created when existing pavement is ground up for resurfacing. This material retains the original stone aggregate and asphalt cement.

Appearance and Performance

Millings initially resemble dark gray gravel. Over time, heat causes the residual asphalt to bind, creating a semi-solid surface. A "Rejuvenator" fog seal can speed up this process and restore a darker black appearance.

4. Permeable Asphalt (The Eco-Friendly Choice)

If you live in a strict municipality with "impervious surface coverage" limits (common in lakefront or coastal towns), standard asphalt might be illegal for your property.

Enter Porous (Permeable) Asphalt.

This mix leaves out the fine sand, creating a honeycomb structure that allows water to drain through the pavement into a stone recharge bed below.

Pros & Cons of Permeable Paving

• ✅ Pro: No Drainage Swales Required. The driveway is the drain. You don't need to grade the land to shed water.
• ✅ Pro: Tax Credits. Many towns offer stormwater tax credits for permeable surfaces.
• ✅ Pro: Ice Mitigation. Melting snow drains instantly rather than refreezing into "black ice" overnight.
• ❌ Con: Cost. Expect to pay 20-30% more due to the deeper (18-24 inch) stone reservoir required underneath.
• ❌ Con: Maintenance. You must vacuum perform "regenerative air sweeping" twice a year to prevent clogging. You cannot sand your driveway in winter (it clogs the pores).

5. Heated Driveway Systems (Radiant)

Tired of shoveling? In 2026, installing a heated driveway system adds roughly $12 - $25 per square foot to your project cost, but it eliminates snow removal forever.

Electric vs. Hydronic

There are two ways to heat asphalt:

1. Electric Mats ($): Wire cables zip-tied to the visibly grid before paving. Ideally for smaller driveways or tire-tracks only. Faster response time.
2. Hydronic Tubing ($$$): PEX tubing circulating hot water/glycol from a boiler in your garage. High upfront cost ($15k+), but lower operating cost. Best for massive estates.

Critical Note: Rolling hot asphalt (300°F) over plastic heating tubes is risky. You must hire a contractor with specific experience in radiant asphalt, or they will crush the tubes, rendering your $10,000 system useless on Day 1.

6. When to Pave (The "Goldilocks" Window)

We cannot overstate this: Temperature is the single most important factor in asphalt longevity.

Asphalt is installed at ~300°F. It needs to be compacted before it cools below 175°F.

The "End of Season" Discount Scam: In November, contractors get desperate. They will offer you 20% off to pave in 40°F weather. Do not do it. A cheap driveway that lasts 2 years is distinctively more expensive than a full-price driveway that lasts 20.

7. Avoiding the "Leftover Asphalt" Scam

This is the #1 consumer fraud in the paving industry.

"Hey, we were paving a driveway down the street and have some leftover asphalt in the truck. We can pave your driveway right now for half price!"

Why this is a lie:

1. Asphalt cools fast. By the time they "finish" the other job, that mix is cold trash. It will not compact.
2. Professional crews calculate tonnage precisely. They rare have "extra" hot mix.
3. If they truly had extra, they would dump it at the plant for recycling, not risk their reputation on a shoddy job.

The Verdict: If someone knocks on your door selling asphalt, lock the door. Reputable contractors are booked 4 weeks out; they don't cold-call.

8. Maintenance 20-Year Timeline

• Year 0-1: The Cure Don't seal it yet! The oils need to oxidize. Keep heavy trucks off. Avoid steering while stopped.
• Year 2-3: First Sealcoat The asphalt has turned light gray. Apply a high-quality coal tar or asphalt emulsion sealer. This acts as "sunscreen" for the binder.
• Year 7-8: Crack Filling Thermal cracks will appear. Use hot-rubberized crack filler (the black snakes). Do not use the cold jug stuff from Home Depot; it lasts 3 months.
• Year 15-20: Replacement Even well-maintained asphalt becomes brittle eventually. It's time to mill and overlay, or rip and replace.

9. The Science of Sub-Grades (Why Driveways Fail)

You can pour the world's most expensive asphalt mix, but if the dirt underneath it moves, your driveway will crack. Period.

In geotechnical engineering, we call the native soil the "sub-grade." Its ability to support a load is measured in CBR (California Bearing Ratio). A high CBR means the soil is strong (like gravel). A low CBR means it's weak (like clay).

Identifying Your Soil Type

Before you pave, you need to know what you are building on.

• Clay (The Enemy): Clay expands when wet and shrinks when dry. It "pumps" up and down with the seasons. If you build directly on clay, your driveway will wave like a roller coaster.
  Solution: You must excavate 12-18 inches deep and install a "geotextile stabilization fabric" before laying your stone base. The fabric prevents the clay from mixing with the stone.
• Silt (The Frost Heave Hazard): Silt holds water like a sponge. In winter, this water freezes and expands, lifting the pavement.
  Solution: Aggressive drainage. You need to keep the water table at least 24 inches below the pavement surface.
• Sand (The Dream): Sand drains perfectly and doesn't expand.
  Solution: Minimal excavation required. 4-6 inches of base is usually sufficient.
• Loam (The Garden Soil): Great for tomatoes, terrible for driveways. It contains organic matter that rots and compresses over time.
  Solution: Complete removal. You cannot pave over organic soil. It must be dug out until you hit inorganic sub-soil.

The Proof Roll Test

How do you know if your sub-grade is ready? Demand a "Proof Roll."

Before the asphalt trucks arrive, have the contractor drive a fully loaded dump truck (60,000 lbs) slowly over the stone base. Watch the tires.

• Pass: The stone forces down slightly but springs back. No rutting.
• Fail: The tires sink more than 1 inch, or the ground "waves" out in front of the truck.

If it fails the Proof Roll, DO NOT PAVE. You must undercut (dig deeper) and add larger "surge stone" (3-inch rock) to bridge the soft spot. Paving over a soft spot is throwing money into a hole.

10. Drainage Engineering 101

Water is the #1 destroyer of asphalt. If water sits on your driveway, it will eventually seep in. If water sits under your driveway, it will freeze and heave.

Your contractor isn't just a paver; they must be a hydrological engineer.

The 2% Rule

Every driveway must have a minimum slope of 2% (1/4 inch drop per foot) to shed water. A "flat" driveway is a failed driveway.

Advanced Drainage Solutions

11. Legal, Permits, and Zoning

Before you sign a contract, you need to visit your town hall. Most homeowners assume they can pave whatever they want on their land. In 2026, this is rarely true.

1. The "Impervious Surface" Limit

Many municipalities limit the percentage of your lot that can be covered by hard surfaces (roof, patio, driveway). This is to prevent flooding in the neighborhood.

Example: If your lot is 10,000 sq ft and the limit is 30%, you can only have 3,000 sq ft of hard surface. If your house footprint is 2,000 sq ft, you only have 1,000 sq ft left for a driveway. Paving more helps result in a fine and a court order to rip it up.

Workaround: This is where Permeable Asphalt (Chapter 4) saves the day. It often doesn't count towards the limit.

2. The "Right of Way" (Apron) Permit

The first 10-15 feet of your driveway (where it meets the street) technically belongs to the town. This is the "Right of Way."

You almost always need a separate permit ($50-$200) to pave this section. The town will inspect:

• Thickness: They often require 6-8 inches of base and 4 inches of asphalt here to support heavy garbage trucks.
• Drainage: You cannot block the street gutter flow. You may need a culvert pipe.
• Sight Lines: You cannot build up the grade so high that it blocks visibility for traffic.

3. HOA Restrictions

If you live in a Homeowners Association, check your bylaws.

• Color: Some HOAs ban blacktop and require concrete or pavers.
• Width: RV pads or driveway widening often requires architecture committee approval.
• Commercial Vehicles: Widening your driveway to park a work truck might be prohibited usage.

12. DIY Sealcoating vs Professional (The Truth)

You can save 400% by sealing your own driveway. But should you?

The bucket you buy at Home Depot ($25 / 5 gallons) is Asphalt Emulsion containing 50% water. It evaporates, leaving a thin film.

A professional uses Coal Tar or Commercial Grade Emulsion with sand mixed in for traction.

The Cost Breakdown

Pro Tip: Never seal a driveway that is less than 12 months old. The fresh oils need to oxidize. Sealing too early traps the oils, causing the asphalt to stay soft forever.

13. Environmental Impact (Is it Toxic?)

In 2026, many homeowners worry about PAHs (Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbons) leaching from driveways into the groundwater.

• Hot Mix Asphalt: Safe. Once cured, the bitumen is inert and does not leech into the soil. It is 100% recyclable. In fact, asphalt is the most recycled material in America (more than plastic and aluminum combined).
• Coal Tar Sealers: Dangerous. Many states (like MN, WA, NY) have banned coal tar sealants because they contain high levels of PAHs that run off into streams, killing fish.
• The Fix: Always demand "Asphalt Emulsion Sealer" (AE) which is water-based and non-toxic.

14. Case Studies (Real World Examples)

Case Study A: "The Cheapskate"

Location: Ohio. Size: 800 sq ft.
Approach: Hired a door-knocker "leftover asphalt" crew for $1,800 cash.
Result:

• The crew merely sprayed a thin layer of tack coat over grass and threw loose asphalt on top.
• No base compaction was performed.
• Within 3 weeks, weeds grew through the asphalt.
• By winter, large chunks broke off. The homeowner had to pay a reputable company $5,000 the next year to remove the mess and pave correctly.
• Total Cost: $6,800 + Shame.

Case Study B: "The Engineer"

Location: Vermont. Size: 800 sq ft (Steep Grade).
Approach: Hired a top-rated firm for $6,500.
Specs:

• Removed organic soil (12 inches deep).
• Installed 8 inches of 1.5" crushed stone base.
• Passed Proof Roll test.
• Laid 2.5 inches of binder course (standard mix).
• Laid 1.5 inches of top course (sand mix).
• Compacted with a 3-ton vibratory roller.

Result: 15 years later, the driveway has zero structural cracks. It has been sealed 3 times ($400 each). Total cost of ownership per year: $500.

15. The Ultimate Asphalt Glossary (A-Z)

Aggregate: Crushed stone, gravel, and sand that make up 95% of asphalt pavement.
Alligator Cracking: Interconnected cracks resembling reptile skin. Sign of sub-base failure.
Binder Course: The lower layer of asphalt containing larger stones for strength.
Bitumen: The black, sticky oil (petroleum) that glues the aggregate together.
CBR: California Bearing Ratio. A measure of sub-grade soil strength.
Cold Joint: Where a new lane of asphalt meets a cooled lane. Weak point.
Compaction: Using rollers to densify the mat, removing air voids.
Crown: The high point in the center of a road to shed water.
Emulsion: Asphalt cement mixed with water and emulsifying agents. Used for sealing.
Fog Seal: A light spray of diluted emulsion to rejuvenate old oxidized asphalt.
Full Depth Asphalt: Building a driveway entirely of asphalt (no stone base). Rare.
Geotextile: A synthetic fabric placed under the base to separate stone from clay.
Grade: The slope of the land, expressed as a percentage.
Hot Mix Asphalt (HMA): Asphalt heated to 300°F at the plant. Unbeatable durability.
Infrared Repair: Heating old asphalt to melt it, then adding new mix. Seamless patch.
Lute: The long aluminum rake used by the "raker" to smooth joints and edges.
Millings: Recycled ground-up asphalt pavement. Cheap, eco-friendly.
Overlay: Paving a new layer over an existing driveway. Risky if base is bad.
Permeable Pavement: Porous mix that allows water to drain through.
Proof Roll: Driving a heavy truck over the base to check for deflection (soft spots).
Raveling: When the aggregate stones come loose from the surface.
Reflection Cracking: When cracks in the old layer migrate up through the new overlay.
Sealcoat: A liquid protective layer applied to surface asphalt to block UV/water.
Sub-Grade: The native soil beneath the driveway construction.
Sub-Base: The layer of crushed stone immediately above the sub-grade.
Swell: The expansion of soil (usually clay or frost heave) lifting the pavement.
Tack Coat: Sticky liquid asphalt sprayed between layers to glue them together.
Thermal Cracking: Cracks caused by the shrinking of pavement in extreme cold.
Top Course (Surface Course): The final smooth layer of asphalt with fine aggregate.
Warm Mix Asphalt: Produced at lower temps (250°F). Saves energy, fewer fumes.

16. Regional Asphalt Price Guide (2026)

Asphalt pricing is hyper-local. It depends on the distance to the nearest "Hot Mix Plant" and the local cost of labor. Below is a state-by-state guide to 2026 residential pricing.

State	Price Range (/sq ft)	Key Factor
Alabama	$6.50 - $9.00	Low labor cost, high humidity concerns.
Alaska	$12.00 - $18.00	Short season, high transport costs.
Arizona	$7.00 - $10.00	Extreme heat requires stiffer binder oils.
Arkansas	$6.00 - $8.50	Affordable aggregate locally available.
California	$9.00 - $15.00	Strict environmental regulations (CARB).
Colorado	$8.50 - $12.50	Freeze-thaw cycle requires thick base.
Connecticut	$9.00 - $14.00	Union labor rates drive prices up.
Delaware	$8.00 - $12.00	Coastal soil stability issues.
Florida	$6.50 - $10.00	Sandy soil reduces excavation costs.
Georgia	$6.00 - $9.00	Competitive market, long paving season.
Hawaii	$15.00 - $22.00	Imported oil/bitumen cost is extreme.
Idaho	$7.50 - $10.00	Rural delivery fees add up.
Illinois	$8.50 - $12.00	High union density in Chicago area.
Indiana	$7.00 - $10.00	Limestone quarries keep material cheap.
Iowa	$7.50 - $10.50	Severe winter durability required.
Kansas	$7.00 - $9.50	Standard pricing, minimal excavation mostly.
Kentucky	$6.50 - $9.00	Limestone abundance lowers cost.
Louisiana	$6.50 - $9.50	Swampy soil requires deep stabilization.
Maine	$9.00 - $13.50	Frost heaves are the primary concern.
Maryland	$8.50 - $12.00	DC Metro area has inflated labor rates.
Massachusetts	$10.00 - $16.00	Very high prevailing wage and disposal fees.
Michigan	$8.00 - $11.50	Weight restrictions on frost-law roads.
Minnesota	$8.50 - $12.50	Requires special "Superpave" PG 58-34 oil.
Mississippi	$6.00 - $8.50	Low labor cost, hot summers.
Missouri	$7.00 - $10.00	Clay soil often needs lime treatment.
Montana	$8.50 - $12.00	Vast distances increase trucking costs.
Nebraska	$7.50 - $10.50	Similar to Kansas/Iowa pricing models.
Nevada	$8.00 - $11.50	Desert heat cures asphalt very slowly.
New Hampshire	$9.00 - $13.00	Granite makes for excellent, hard sub-base.
New Jersey	$9.50 - $15.00	Refinery proximity, but high taxes/labor.
New Mexico	$7.50 - $10.00	Dry climate preserves asphalt well.
New York	$10.00 - $18.00	NYC/Long Island pricing is double upstate.
North Carolina	$7.00 - $10.00	Fast growing market, competitive.
North Dakota	$9.00 - $13.00	Oil boom increased labor costs significantly.
Ohio	$7.50 - $11.00	Heavy freeze-thaw cycles.
Oklahoma	$6.50 - $9.00	Oil producing state, cheap binder.
Oregon	$8.50 - $12.50	Wet climate requires excellent drainage.
Pennsylvania	$8.00 - $12.00	Rocky soil, plenty of local aggregate.
Rhode Island	$9.50 - $14.00	Small state, high logistics costs.
South Carolina	$6.50 - $9.50	Similar to NC, coastal sand issues.
South Dakota	$8.00 - $11.00	Low demand, spread out contractors.
Tennessee	$6.50 - $9.50	Limestone base is standard here.
Texas	$7.00 - $11.00	Expansive clay soils are a major issue.
Utah	$8.00 - $11.50	High altitude UV damage concerns.
Vermont	$9.00 - $13.50	Mud season ("stick season") delays paving.
Virginia	$7.50 - $11.00	Northern VA is pricey, rural is cheap.
Washington	$9.00 - $14.00	Rain delays often extend projects.
West Virginia	$7.00 - $10.00	Steep terrain increases machinery risk.
Wisconsin	$8.00 - $11.50	Short paving season (May-Sept).
Wyoming	$8.50 - $12.00	Wind and cold make compaction hard.

17. Troubleshooting Matrix (Fixing Mistakes)

Already have a driveway? Diagnosing the problem correctly can save you $10,000.

⚠️ Problem: Divots or Sinkholes

Cause: Poor base compaction or a buried stump rotting away.
The Fix: You cannot patch this. You must cut out the square (saw cut), dig down to the void, fill it with dense grade stone, compact it, and re-patch.

⚠️ Problem: "Birdbaths" (Puddles)

Cause: The crew didn't check the pitch during rolling.
The Fix: Infrared heating. A machine heats the area to 350°F, rakers add new mix to build up the low spot, and re-compact. Costs ~$500.

⚠️ Problem: Tire Marks / Scuffing

Cause: Turning the steering wheel while the asphalt is hot or fresh.
The Fix: Do nothing. Traffic and sun will usually flatten these out over 6 months. If severe, a torch and tamper can smooth it.

⚠️ Problem: Vegetation Growth

Cause: Seeds were in the base, or thin asphalt.
The Fix: Do not just pull it. Use a systemic herbicide (Glyphosate). Then, fill the crack with hot rubber. If dandelions are punching through the middle of the driveway, your asphalt is too thin (less than 2 inches).

⚠️ Problem: Oil Stains

Cause: Leaky car. Asphalt is oil-based; new oil dissolves old oil.
The Fix: Scrub with Dawn dish soap and kitty litter immediately. Do not use solvent-based degreasers, they will dissolve the driveway too.

18. The Future of Paving (2026-2030)

The asphalt industry is not stagnant. Innovations in material science are changing how we pave.

1. Self-Healing Asphalt (Induction Heating)

Scientists at Delft University have developed asphalt mixed with steel wool fibers. When cracks appear, an induction machine (a giant magnet) drives over the road. The heat generated by the magnetic field melts the bitumen around the steel wool, closing the cracks automatically.
Status: Available in Europe, entering US commercial markets now.

2. Plastic Roads (Recycled Waste)

Companies like MacRebur are replacing part of the bitumen (oil) with recycled plastic pellets. This sequesters plastic waste that would end up in oceans and creates a pavement that is harder and more resistant to rutting.
Status: widely used in California and Pacific Northwest pilot programs.

3. Solar Roadways

Replacing asphalt with tempered glass solar panels. While viral on social media, this technology has largely failed in real-world testing due to traction issues and brittleness.
Status: Dead end. Stick to asphalt.

19. The "Bulletproof" Contractor Interview Script

Print this out and ask these exact questions to every bidder. Their reaction will tell you everything.

// QUESTION 1: EQUIPMENT

You: "Will you be using a pavers or laying by hand?"
Correct Answer: "We use a self-propelled paver for the main driveway. We only hand-work the radius."
Wrong Answer: "We can spread it just as good with rakes." (Run away.)

// QUESTION 2: THICKNESS

You: "Is the 3 inches in the contract 'compacted' or 'loose'?"
Correct Answer: "That is 3 inches compacted. We lay 4 inches of loose mix."
Wrong Answer: "It's 3 inches average." (This means you get 2 inches.)

// QUESTION 3: SUB-BASE

You: "If you find soft clay after digging out the old driveway, how much do you charge for undercut excavation?"
Correct Answer: "We charge $X per cubic yard for undercutting and installing surge stone."
Wrong Answer: "Don't worry, we'll just compact it real good." (You cannot compact clay.)

// QUESTION 4: THE CREW

You: "Is the owner on the screed?"
Correct Answer: "Yes, I operate the screed myself."
Wrong Answer: "I have a foreman who handles that." (The screed operator determines the quality of the mat. You want the owner there.)

20. Heavy Equipment Guide (Know What You Pay For)

When you see the bill for "Mobilization: $1,500", this is what you are paying for.

Tracks vs. Wheels

Wheeled Pavers: Faster, but can lose traction on steep hills or sand.
Tracked Pavers: Slower, massive torque. Essential for steep driveways or soft sub-grades. Demand a tracked paver if you have a hill.

Vibratory Rollers

A static roller simply presses the asphalt. A vibratory roller shakes the ground at 3,000 vibrations per minute. This liquefies the sand particles, allowing them to settle into a tighter matrix.
Result: 96% density vs 88% density.

The Milling Machine (Cold Planer)

A giant drum with diamond teeth that chews up 2 inches of old pavement in seconds. It leaves a textured "grooved" surface that is perfect for bonding a new layer.
Cost: $2,500 per day to rent.

The Distributor Truck (Tack Coat)

A truck with a spray bar that applies the "glue" (SS-1h emulsion) between layers.
Warning: Some contractors use a "wand" (hand sprayer) and miss spots. A distributor truck ensures 100% coverage.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Q: Is asphalt cheaper than concrete?

Yes. In 2026, an asphalt driveway costs roughly 50-60% less than a concrete driveway upfront. However, concrete lasts longer (30-40 years vs 20 years) and requires zero maintenance. Over a 30-year period, the costs are surprisingly similar.

Q: Can I pave over my existing driveway?

This is called an "overlay." It saves you $1-$2/sq ft in demolition costs. However, you can ONLY do this if the base is solid. If your current driveway has "alligator cracking" (looks like reptile skin), the sub-base has failed. An overlay will just reflect those cracks within 12 months.

Q: How thick should my driveway be?

3 inches compacted. Many contractors quote "3 inches" but mean uncompacted depth. After the roller hits it, that becomes 2.25 inches. Demand a contract that specifies "3 inches COMPACTED thickness" (which requires laying 4 inches of loose mix).

Q: Should I put edging in?

Yes. Asphalt has poor edge strength. If a delivery truck drives off the edge, it will crumble. You should backfill the edges with topsoil or install a Belgian block/paver border for structural support.

Conclusion

Asphalt remains the king of value for American driveways. It's flexible enough to survive Minnesota winters, cheap enough for long country lanes, and recyclable enough to satisfy modern codes.

Measurements are the first step to an accurate budget. Use the DrivewaySatellite Tool at the top of this page to get your exact square footage. Don't guess. Know your numbers before you call the pros.

Sources & Citations (2026)

• 1. National Asphalt Pavement Association (NAPA) - Monthly Liquid Asphalt Index
• 2. Federal Highway Administration (FHWA) - Long-Term Pavement Performance Program (LTPP)
• 3. University of Minnesota Extension - Asphalt Durability in Freeze/Thaw Cycles
• 4. U.S. Energy Information Administration - Petroleum & Other Liquids Data